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Your motherboard should have shipped with an expansion slot mountable eSATA bracket. Here's the installation instructions found in the motherboard manual.
The eSata port on your computer case (or bracket) usually just has an extension cable going into a regular SATA port on the mobo.
Your mobo should see the esata hdd just fine, and will detect it as being an internal HDD on SATA port #...
With windows 7, I would use the integrated complete PC backup solution.
It allows you to create an image of an entire partition or hdd on several DVD's or any other partition/drive connected to your PC (big enough to fit the image you are backing up.)
So once you get your esata drive, just backup the image in windows.
to Restore: Boot with Win7 DVD -> repair computer -> Restore using complete system image.... 10 minutes later, you're done.
p.s. I think this works with USB HDD's as well, and another way to go is to create a partition on your existing internal Hdd (around 20-25 gigs), and backup to that. Not great if your drive dies though....
If your board didn't come with a bracket, they are available at scan.co.uk quite cheaply. As long as you're using an enclosure with its own power source, this one will work:
If you have and old IDE HDD that is at least 200GB, I know from the past four years that it will suffice. But you will need to replace any existing IDE DVD-R/RW drive(s) with a SATA DVD-R/RW drive, so that you don't have both an IDE HDD and an IDE DVD-R/RW drive on a single IDE channel. But a SATA DVD-R/RW drive, only costs $29.
Also Note:
With the enormousness size of Image backups with Vista and Win7, compared the itty bitty WinXP Image backups, you should absolutely take advantage of incremental backup Images. For example, if you make a 15 gig backup, and in two to three weeks an incremental backup, the incremental backup might be as small as 4 to 8 gigs.
And of course, partitioning drive(s) and separating basic applications and games, from your Operating System, is a must.
The eSata port on your computer case (or bracket) usually just has an extension cable going into a regular SATA port on the mobo.
Your mobo should see the esata hdd just fine, and will detect it as being an internal HDD on SATA port #...
Organising the drive into smaller manageable partitions by content is a good idea. Do note however that if you separate OS and programs, and restore an older OS partition image, from a time when you didn't have those programs installed, the restored OS will lack the programs registry settings and application data etc.
Some applications are pretty autonomous, ie will continue working without any registry settings (created by the apps installer), but others will fall over. The ones that fall over will need to be completely re-installed, unless you have a backup copy of a more recent registry.
What I would do, and it's only a suggestion, everyone has there own way they like to do stuff, is to create two images. The first should be just a plain old Windows and all up to date drivers and Windows Updates. This can be written to DVD and kept somewhere, maybe with your OS, along with the apropriate bootable disc to use to restore the image (if not using Windows built in tool. If you ever want to start from scratch and re-vamp your PC, this means you can do so in ~3-4 minutes rather than the ~30 minutes it takes to actually install Windows afresh
The second image should be of OS and programs (everything you need such as office apps, little things like Acrobat reader, DVD burning software, basically every program you use regularly on your machine) on one partition and data on another. This can be incrementally updated rather than having to create whole new images, but only if using a 3rd party app, not with the Win 7 utility.
You can also create a separate partition for any games you play if you wish, rather than install them with your programs. I recommend personally against backing this partition up in its entirety, as the games you play may vary depending on when you finish them/get bored with them. I do a fair bit of shuffling games around, eg moving to my mechanical drive after I complete them.
To make sure your game saves are preserved, you can add the folders to the incremental backup of your OS and data partitions. Some saves are stored on C:\, and if playing a Games For Windows Live title via an offline profile, the "xlive" folder also needs backing up. I recommend backing up "xlive" any way. C:\Documents and settings\<User Name>\My Documents\ is usually where the saves are located in most games sold in the last few years. For some stupid reason, although Vista/Win 7 has a Saved Games folder at C:\Documents and settings\<User Name>\ virtually no retail video game uses the file (I've never seen one put its saves there!). Older games will sometimes store saves in the actual installation directory.
Coolermaster CM 690 II advance Case Corsair HX750(CWT, 91%(80+ Gold rated @230V) single 62A 12V rail P55A-UD4 v2.0 @ F14 Core i5 760 @ 20 x 201, 4.02GHz TRUE Black with a single Noctua NF-P12pumping out 55 CFM @ 19db. 2 x 2GB Mushkin Ridgeback (996902), @ 7-10-8-27, 2010-DDR, 1.66v 2 x Gigabyte GTX 460 1024MB in SLI (Pre OC'd to 715MHz core and 1800MHz VRAM) @ 850 Core / 4100 Mem. Intel X25-M Boot Drive (OS and Programs) 200MB/s Read & 90MB/s Write Corsair X32 200MB/s Read & 100MB/s Write WD Caviar Blue 640GBC (Steam, Games, Storage, Temp Files & Folders, etc) Samsung F3 500GB Backup/Images Noctua 1300RPM 19dBcase fan (rear extraction) 3 x 140 MM Coolermaster LED fans (one front intake, one top extraction, one side intake) Dell Ultra Sharp 2209WAf E-IPS @ 1680x1050
If using a "Power over SATA enabled device, then sure. However, the SATA brackets discussed here are not power enabled. The bracket in the picture has a molex pass through. The one I posted assumes that the HDD enclosure has its own power supply.
Using a normal Desktop HDD in a caddy, as the OP wants to do, means that there doesn't need to be any thought given to ESATA power specs. Either the drive is being powered by the enclosure it's in, or by a molex to SATA power cord connected to the PC's PSU. All that the OP will really be doing is using extension leads to enable plugging a normal SATA drive in, without having to open the case. The ame result ofc is achieved by opening the case and plugging the drive in, then unplugging and closing the case afterward. At no point does one need to consider power supply requirements.
If you are referring to transmit/receive potential, this has been altered to help cut interferance, as the ESATA cable is more exposed to other devices than the SATA cables internally.
The information you posted would IMO only really apply if using native ESATA ports hard wired to a motherboard. For this application, as said, the OP is merely extending internal SATA ports.
Coolermaster CM 690 II advance Case Corsair HX750(CWT, 91%(80+ Gold rated @230V) single 62A 12V rail P55A-UD4 v2.0 @ F14 Core i5 760 @ 20 x 201, 4.02GHz TRUE Black with a single Noctua NF-P12pumping out 55 CFM @ 19db. 2 x 2GB Mushkin Ridgeback (996902), @ 7-10-8-27, 2010-DDR, 1.66v 2 x Gigabyte GTX 460 1024MB in SLI (Pre OC'd to 715MHz core and 1800MHz VRAM) @ 850 Core / 4100 Mem. Intel X25-M Boot Drive (OS and Programs) 200MB/s Read & 90MB/s Write Corsair X32 200MB/s Read & 100MB/s Write WD Caviar Blue 640GBC (Steam, Games, Storage, Temp Files & Folders, etc) Samsung F3 500GB Backup/Images Noctua 1300RPM 19dBcase fan (rear extraction) 3 x 140 MM Coolermaster LED fans (one front intake, one top extraction, one side intake) Dell Ultra Sharp 2209WAf E-IPS @ 1680x1050
<link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CE6700%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsoh tml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:595.3pt 841.9pt; margin:2.0cm 42.55pt 42.55pt 42.55pt; mso-header-margin:35.45pt; mso-footer-margin:35.45pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Thanks to you all. I didn’t realise that my motherboard came with a esata bracket. Shortly after my computer was built, all the boxes were stored in the attic. I forgot there were bits and pieces left in the box.
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I already have two hard drives in my computer. I told that I should store backup images externally, just in case. Up to now I’ve been using Norton Ghost 14. Unfortunately, Ghost 14 is not compatible with Windows 7. I understand that Ghost 15 will be, but there is no release date as yet. I’ve been in contact with Norton regarding Ghost 15, but all they will say is “it will be done when it done”.
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Thanks for the link to “Macrium Reflect”. I’m downloading it now.
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Not sure about incremental backups. The backup utility built into 7 does just that. I suppose I’ll have to get use to it until Ghost 15 comes along. I usually like to restore from a Ghost image and copy over my existing installation, completely.
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I’m glad I’m not the only one aware of the size of 7. Without all my software, the basic installation was over 12GB.
<o:p> </o:p>
Thanks once again to you all for replying.
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Can any one recommend an enclosure for a Samsung F3 1TB HDD?
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Cheers,
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Jessica
The following, sorted in the order of 'Most Reviews', is how I like to find a product sometimes:
Note: Sometimes, and this time, read the reviews in reverse order (first, second, third etc.). That way you get a better understanding of the product's features and the good and bad things.
The first one looks like a winner!!! And dirt cheap too.
GL
<<< LGA2011-v3 System Summary >>> > Power Supply: CORSAIR AX Series AX860 860W 80 PLUS PLATINUM Haswell Ready Full Modular (NE Link) > Chipset : Intel X99 > Mainboard :Gigabyte GA-X99-Ultra Gaming (NE Link) > Processor : i7-6850K (NE Link) > AIO: Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 (NE Link) > Physical Memory : G.SKILL TridentZ Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3200 Model F4-3200C14Q-32GTZSW (NE Link) > Video Card : 2x ASUS ROG STRIX-GTX1070-O8G-GAMING (NE Link)
<<< LGA1366 System Summary >>>
> Power Supply: >>>Original PSU (2011-01) : Corsair 620HX (NE Link) >>>Upgrade PSU (2012-01) : CORSAIR AX850 (CMPSU-850AX) 850W (NE Link) > Chipset : Intel X58
> Mainboard : Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R (REV.2.0) (FB BIOS) (NE Link MPP Link)
> Processor : i7-950 (Revision D0) 3.0GHz @3.84GHz (NE Link MPP Link)
> HSF: Noctua NH-D14 (NE LinkMPP Link)
> Physical Memory : >>>Original RAM (2011-01) : G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Model F3-12800CL9T-6GBNQ >>>Upgrade RAM (2012-01) : Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 12GB (3 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) w/FrostByte Heatsink Model 998990 (NE Link MPP Link OverClockersClub Dot Com Article) > Video Card : >>>Original Vid Card (2011-01) : BFG Geforce GTX295 (NE Link) >>>Upgrade Vid Card(2012-01) : (2) EVGA 02G-P3-1568-KR GTX 560 Ti (2GB)-SLI (NE Link) >>>Upgrade Vid Card(2013-07) : (2) GTX 760-SLI Gigabyte GV-N760OC-4GB (NE Link)
> DVD-Rom Drive : TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S203B ATA Device
> Monitor : ViewSonic Pro Series VP2655wb Black 26" (NE Link) > Operating System : Windows 7 Ultimate > Case : COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1 Black Steel (NE Link) <<< LGA775 System Summary >>>
> Power Supply: Corsair 620HX (NE Link)
> Mainboard : Gigabyte P35-S3G (F2 BIOS)
> Chipset : Intel P35
> Processor : Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale (Revision C0) 3.0GHz @ 3950 MHz
> HSF: Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro
> Physical Memory : CORSAIR DOMINATOR 4GB (2 x 2GB) (Link)
> Video Card : BFG Geforce GTX295
> DVD-Rom Drive : TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S203B ATA Device
> Monitor : ViewSonic Pro Series VP2655wb Black 26"
> Operating System : Windows 7 Ultimate
In case it was missed, the eSATA enclosure is not a requirement when using the Gigabyte eSATA bracket. The bracket comes with the cables to connect "internal" type SATA devices externally.
If you are referring to transmit/receive potential, this has been altered to help cut interferance, as the ESATA cable is more exposed to other devices than the SATA cables internally.
The information you posted would IMO only really apply if using native ESATA ports hard wired to a motherboard. For this application, as said, the OP is merely extending internal SATA ports.
Yes, only those. After all external SATA is "just extending" internal ports.
If it was a removable SATA drive tray that uses the standard cable, I'd say there is no problem, extending the cable length may present a problem.
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